The Grids Sing
XiaoTing Chen
This collection draws references from the structure of music and the visual language of musical notation. The square grid of medieval scores - symbols indicating rhythm, pauses and repetitions are translated into sophisticated new fabrics and fluid, draped silhouettes. Melody and percussion are reflected within pleats and checks in this delicately powerful statement which explores control and release.
The recent Medieval Women exhibition at the British Library was a particular inspiration, revealing how nuns engaged with music as part of their spiritual and intellectual lives, creating space for expression within rigid structures. Charming and whimsical hand-drawn figures found in the margins of medieval music manuscripts have inspired references to the historic Henin hat, braies, and Liripipe hood.
An understated colour palette combines dark ink and shades of grey alongside translucent white and crimson. Contrasting forces of musical precision and improvisation are translated through multiple surface treatments. Devoré print, screen printed foil, flocking and hand-crocheting are used in masterful ways for versatile, multi-layered looks.
XiaoTing is a London-based fashion design student at the University of Westminster, with a strong background in atelier practice and a passion for textile experimentation. As an emerging designer, she explores drapes and innovative silhouettes, often drawing inspiration from cultural narratives and material tactility. Her design practice balances technical precision with intuitive form-making, aiming to create emotionally resonant yet wearable pieces.
