Wrapped in Structure
Emilia Zaharia
“Wrapped in Structure”, reflects a contemporary reinterpretation of modern femininity and power, exploring the visual language of 1980s power dressing through a contemporary womenswear perspective. A key concept in the collection is reinterpreting historical silhouettes through refined proportions and modern pattern-cutting, reducing excess while maintaining a strong, commanding presence. Structured shoulders and sculpted curved hips redefine the female silhouette, balancing authority with elegance, strength with softness.
Inspired by the iconic 1980s bow blouse, the collection transforms the traditional bust dart into a continuous bow integrated directly into the garment’s front. This approach combines tailoring and ornamentation into a single sculptural form, creating silhouettes that feel both architectural and feminine. Crafted from deadstock Italian sateen wool, the garments focus on precision, clean construction, and exaggerated shaping that enhances the body while maintaining sophistication and restraint.
Texture and materiality are explored through experimental fabric manipulation inspired by Mari Anastasova’s ceramic relief wall artworks. Texture and materiality are explored through experimental fabric manipulation inspired by Mari Anastasova’s ceramic relief wall artworks. Texture and materiality are explored through experimental fabric manipulation inspired by Mari Anastasova’s ceramic relief wall artworks. Inspired by the muted tones of the Atacama Desert, the colour palette combines soft sand, blush, chalk white, and earthy neutrals. Together, the collection celebrates sculptural femininity, craftsmanship, and a contemporary evolution of power dressing.
Raised in the Republic of Moldova, Emilia Zaharia specialises in womenswear, with a key interest in couture pieces, craftsmanship, and hand-finishing techniques. After moving to London to pursue her career in Fashion Design, she developed a design approach that combines precise tailoring with experimental textile manipulation. Her graduate collection, “Wrapped in Structure,” reinterprets 1980s power dressing through sculptural silhouettes, refined proportions, and contemporary femininity. Inspired by the ceramic relief artworks of Mari Anastasova and the muted landscapes of the Atacama Desert, the collection explores the balance between strength and softness, celebrating craftsmanship, innovation, and modern elegance.
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